Shokudaikiri Mitsutada - Touken Ranbu [kiwame]

Jacket & Pants

Stretch cotton suiting from Mood (the same stuff I used for Abbacchio) - the jacket is McCalls M7374, heavily modified in the front, while the pants are one of my constant iterations of pants drafts in an attempt to make pants that fit well. The front panels on the jacket are black poly satin, and the gold trim and back inset is silk dupioni. I ended up having to go back in and add a bunch of interlining to keep the jacket front smooth, which is good lesson in 'maybe you should double-check actual tailoring resources when you are trying to make a tailored coat'.

Jacket Embroidery

The front embroidery is all machine-done. The goal was to mimic the look of a jacquard with the pattern in floating weft threads, and I think I mostly succeeded! The tricky part was that my embroidery machine only does 4"x4" in one go, and while the panels aren't wide, they're substantially longer than four inches. The solution was a combination of a multiposition hoop and carefully positioning the splits in my design so any minor error made when rehooping fabric wouldn't be too obvious.

Jacket Lining

One of the more insane parts of this, particularly as I was doing it with only the sprite art (none of which has a good view) for reference. I ended up tracing what I could off the sprite art in photoshop, printing at scale, and then using that as a starting point to copy onto an outline of the pattern pieces on newsprint, at which point I had to basically fill in all the sections not visible in any of the art. That in turn got traced onto the silk with resist, and the silk got strung up across my basement to paint the dye onto. I got some bleed over the resist lines, but this was the third or fourth time I've tried silk painting with resist lines and by far the most successful!